Thursday, July 28, 2011

Borroloola to Darwin

We spent a day relaxing in the Borroloola Caravan Park after 3 big days of dirt driving across the Gulf of Carpenteria. At one point during the day, the lady owner of the van park was mowing the rocks (and a few tuffs of grass) in shorts and thongs, when we suddenly heard an explosive round of cursing. We looked up and had to laugh. She had mowed over a water pipe and water was shooting 4m up in the air... was quite entertaining! 

From Borroloola we headed West to Mataranka. The most exciting thing along this boring road was being pulled over by the police. They wanted to know if we had seen or passed a maroon sedan since leaving Borroloola. We hadn't. A few hundred kms along the way, we pulled into a rest stop for lunch. Whilst munching on our sandwich (that quickly turns to toast in this heat), a maroon sedan pulled in! I, of course, imagine an axe murderer stepping out of the car with a potential body chopped in pieces and stored in the boot. Instead a middle aged, middle class lady emerges has a quick smoke and pushes on. Not before I had taken her number plate and details though! We saw her again, at a servo later in the day and I decided she was not an axe murderer and must not be who the police were looking for. 

Daly Waters was an interesting little town with this souvenir shop and check out inside the pub. Yes, those are signed underwear hanging from the rafters...

So you can imagine our surprise and delight when we pulled into the town of Katherine and found an old friend welcoming us with open arms. Hello Ronald! Mmmmmmm


KATHERINE GORGE
From Katherine we headed 27kms out of town to Katherine Gorge. We were most disappointed! Perhaps we have been spoilt by all we have seen but it just did not compare to Lawn Hill Gorge. The water was the same murky colour as the Hastings River back in Port Macquarie. It was expensive to camp there too.

The one saving grace I will say, is that they had the most beautiful pool area with awesome live music both nights that could be easily heard throughout the campsite. We enjoyed sitting at our camp, listening to the guitar instrumentals and old classics, and watching the thousands of bats fly overhead as the sun disappeared.

We also had a few adorable baby wallabies hanging around our camp - they were so cute. 


LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK
As you drive north from Katherine to Darwin, the scenery begins to change (thank goodness as it was becoming quite monotonous). Thousands of small palms and ferns litter the bush, and along with these a noticeable increase in the temperature!

Just south of Darwin is Litchfield NP. We didn't know at all what to expect but we found a real pearl here. It's mostly made up with creeks, rivers and waterfalls, most of which you can safely swim in. These are the Florence Falls...

There was heaps of tourist buses, Europeans driving mental rentals and of course lots of aussies too. We found a place to camp the first night (well it wasn't really a place, but we made it one as everything was full). We decided the next day to try avoid all the tourists and head down a 4WD track to Surprise Creek Falls. The drive was stunning, from palms galore to open grassy marshlands filled with ant mounds that look like giant graveyards...

We learnt that these mounds are called Magnetic ant mounds. They all face the same way to control the temperature inside. They are also really thin side on...this is the front on and side on view of the same mound! amazing little architects those ants!

When we stopped to take the above photos of the ant mounds, Geoff noticed the soil we were driving on was sparkly and shiny - it was like it was filled with glitter...

The pearl I mentioned earlier was the Surprise Creek Falls. Imagine a creek on the top of a rock ledge with a 5m waterfall into a round, deep blue pool. From that pool another 5m waterfall into another beautiful deep blue pool about the same size. From that pool, the water slides down the smooth rock like a water slide into a crystal clear lagoon surrounded by palms. This is what we found! The photos don't do it justice, but it'll give you a bit of an idea of the paradise we enjoyed for a few hours... The photo below is the lagoon at the bottom...

This is the next pool up...

And this is the top pool which we basically had all to ourselves, complete with a personal waterfall, spa bath, waterslide and pool. The pool was SO clear yet SO deep. Geoff couldn't reach the bottom. This is Living!!!

It was a 1.5 hour 4WD to get to Surprise Creek Falls which is probably why there were only a few people there. The 4WD track also had a deeper river crossing at the Reynolds River. You can see in the photo below a sand bar island to the right that was the easier way to cross. As Geoff was sussing it out, another 4WD came through and stopped on the sandbar blocking the easier way to cross as we couldn't reverse and neither could they. Geoff was thrilled as he now how to tackle the 100m river crossing without using the sandbar! Figuring there was at least another 4WD there if we ran into trouble we prepared for the crossing. We had learnt at Cape York to occy strap the radiator fan to stop it from moving during a deeper river crossing (as last time it ended up in the radiator). Geoff also walked through the crossing to make sure it was OK. 

'Conrad' (car) and 'Spaceship' (camper trailer) ploughed through it easily! It was GREAT fun too and there was alot of YEEHA'S and WHOOPIES as we made it to the other side...

 As Geoff waded through the crossing prior to driving through he found the best souvenir mostly buried on the river floor...

Before leaving Litchfield NP, we stopped at all the tourist places we hadn't seen along the way out. These were the Wangi Falls (no swimming here today due to potential crocs though).

Leaving Litchfield yesterday afternoon we pushed 130kms North into Darwin. We haven't seen much of the place yet, but what we have seen looks great. We can't wait to explore here!! 

Thursday, July 21, 2011

One Finger Salute

Karumba and the Gulf

KARUMBA
Karumba will be affectionately remembered by us. The van park where we stayed was the friendliest place we have stayed in all of Australia. That could be due to the fact that it was more like a retirement village and we were the only 'young' ones getting around. The fishing was also great fun, and the temperature was a balmy 30 degrees every day. 

We decided there was more interesting things to catch out in the ocean, so we headed out there each day (instead of fishing the river). It was so incredibly smooth, like a lake, with a ridiculous amount of tinnies getting around... 

On the first day out, Geoff caught 4 nice Bream, all weighing between 1-2 pound. On the second day out, I caught my first Grunter (4 pounds/55cm). Karumba is apparently the Grunter capital of the world so it was nice to catch their speciality! Great eating too (even if my batter did end up stuck to the bottom of the pan instead of the fish). 

On the third day out, we followed a flock of birds feeding about 8km out to sea. Success!! Geoff always had faith in this roosta lure, even though in the past it had seen no action. He caught a 16 pound/101cm Giant Queenfish! 

Within minutes of dropping the lure back into the water it was my turn - a 17 pound/99cm Queenfish!

It was great fun!!! Again, within minutes of trawling the lure, Geoff caught his 2nd Queenfish. After that we thought we better stop as we didn't want to catch (or clean) too many!

Heading back to the boat ramp with our 3 big fish in tow...

Back at camp at the cleaning tables, we had 3 people help us clean up our fish! But when we offered them some, they all politely refused. Mmmmm... we begun to wonder if they were going to taste ok!
(A few days later, we ate some of the Queenfish and decided it wasn't bad to eat but it wasn't good either! Will have to drown it in a curry next time).

When we checked into the van park at Karumba, the owners had made some mistake, and ending up having to put us right next to the front gate in the entertainment area. This was great news to us as we had lots of room and no neighbours nearby! We also had some entertainment, watching the oldies attempt to belly dance, play bocce, cards, and bingo. 

On Saturday night though, the van park has a free fish BBQ and concert night. Considering we had 160 oldies sitting out front of our camp and the stage less than 10 metres away, we decided it was best to join in! This was the view from our camp...

It ended up being a great night with the best fish I have eva eaten and laugh-a-minute entertainment. (Every week the van park buys 30kg of blue salmon to feed everyone, 380kg per season! Blue salmon is NOTHING like the Australian Salmon from down south. It is a white flesh fish and absolutely delicious).

On our last day fishing, we had so much fun catching Spotted Mackeral. They fight incredibly hard. We lost count of how many we caught but most were undersized at around 50cm.  This one is bent like a banana but was the only legal one at 60cm - great eating fish!

Goodbye Karumba we will miss you!


THE DRIVE ACROSS THE GULF
It wasn't nearly as interesting as we had thought it would be. Just hundreds of kilometres of inland dirt roads with a few shallow creek crossings. The first night we camped at Leichhardt falls.

We found this hot water spring in Burketown the next day...

One of the nights on the road, we set up camp near the Robinson River. Just on dusk some Aboriginals drove a herd of cattle right past our camp! Was great to watch. 

Yesterday (Wednesday) we drove to the coast at a place called Bing Bong, so we could fish the Gulf again. It would have been a great place to camp if we had others with us, or a giant mean dog to protect camp while we were fishing. The clouds looked amazing too...

Deciding it was wise not to camp at Bing Bong we drove back to the Aboriginal town of Borroloola to spent the night. Today we are just relaxing here at Borroloola, having a day off driving. Below is our beloved map of Australia and where we have been over the last year... (also a close up of where we are at the moment). 

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Alice Springs to the Gulf of Carpentaria

ALICE SPRINGS

According to us, Alice Springs gets the 'Craziest Town' award for Australia. I guess any town smack bang in the middle of nowhere, is bound to be slightly crazy. Much of the craziness can sadly be attributed to the large population of out-of-control Aboriginals. Whilst there, I met a nice security guard named Rachel at Coles who was HUGE. She said the Aboriginals don't bother her or her brother because of their size. But they are a problem especially for tourists who often get bashed for money. I also learnt from her that ALL the public toilets in town are locked and you need anywhere between 50 cents to $10 for a deposit for a key. Once again the problem lies with our Aboriginal friends. Too bad I had NO cash and was totally busting!! So with smoke still in our eyes from all the fires, and 1650kms between us and our next destination, we treated ourselves to some comfort food before leaving civilisation...


ON THE ROAD 
We looked at our beloved map of Australia and decided to head North-East to Karumba in the gulf of Carpentaria (QLD). Why? Fishing of course! Our first stop was a roadside stop. This time, we were smart enough to wear earplugs to dampen the noise of traffic roaring past. 

Geoff was also quite proud of where his golf ball landed - thankfully no cars! 

Back on the road again to make a mile...

Cheeky aliens!

The devils Marbles

Most dingos we had seen were really evasive. This one at the Marbles didn't seem to mind tourists too much...

Two words: "BULL BAR"

Another night camping on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.

Boring. Boring. Boring.


LAWN HILL NATIONAL PARK
Yay for warmer weather! Boo for what comes with it!

Being the totally organised, knowing-where-we-are-going couple that we are, we pulled into a campsite on the beautiful Gregory River in Lawn Hill National Park. Turns out, you needed to pre-book one of the 6 sites available via phone or internet. With no phone service that can be quite a challenge. But our Tour Guide, (the almighty creator of this beautiful country), already had it sorted out. We stopped to talk to another camper and it just so turns out, they had an extra site booked for friends that didn't show up and gave us their camping permit. After setting up we found a nice little waterhole to take a bath.

The next morning, I was feeling terrible and there was no way I could travel. But our Tour Guide, once again sorted us out. As a camper left that morning (different group to before), they gave us another camping permit for that night that they didn't need. Praise God, we didn't have to travel! 

The following day, I was again feeling terrible and couldn't travel. We had to stay another night and prayed God would work it out as we had no permit. Praise God though, no-one showed up that night which is incredible as the last 2 nights it had been booked out and full. 

Thankfully the NEXT day, I was feeling better so we continued on our journey. We stopped at some fossil place, and below is a cross-section of a turtle fossil?!

As we returned to our car, we met Greg and Claire who unfortunately had a very flat tyre. It was Geoff to the rescue again! They were so appreciative, they gave Geoff a bottle of cleanskin Red. 

We had heard through the grapevine at our last camp, that the best place to stay in Lawn Hill National Park was the Gorge. We decided just to drive in there just for a look, knowing it was fully booked out. Turns out our Tour Guide had better plans. We chatted to some campers we had previously met and they had a spare camping permit for 2 nights and once again gave them to us!! WOO HOO. 

In the middle of the bush, is the gorge with a stunning green river lined with palms (and only 40m walk from our campsite). We hired some tyres, and relaxed all afternoon on the river. I was a bit nervous knowing there were freshwater crocs, even though they are not interested in humans (apparently!).

The next day we hired a canoe and paddled up the gorge.

We came up to an area with waterfalls that was SO stunning it looked fake - like a movie set. Our photos don't do it justice at all!!

As we were sitting on the jetty, absorbing Gods amazing creation, some grey nomads caught our attention. We hadn't been paying them much attention as they slowly dressed in their dry clothes and shoes after a swim. As they attempted to get back into their canoe, it didn't go according to plan. It was the funniest, slow-motion, awkward attempt we have ever seen. Needless to say, they both ended up in the water fully clothed, canoe upturned. Once again, it was Geoff to the rescue as I bit down on the insides of my cheeks to stop from laughing.

I decided to generously share some of my burger rings with the fish below the jetty. There were SO many, mainly sooty grunters and archerfish. As I was watching them, suddenly a spray of water shot up 1m in the air right into my eye! Turns out archerfish do that - but I didn't know. They emit a burst of water at flying insects to knock them down onto the water to eat. This archerfish must have had eyes bigger than his stomach!

Back at camp, there were no hot showers. This was my motivation for going for a swim, even though I desperately didn't want to get in. As I was standing in the water on a rock willing myself to jump in, I was suddenly faced with my worst nightmare!
A snake was swimming towards me and was only a foot away from my leg! I jumped out as quick as I could but pretty sure he swam right through my legs. Geoff didn't believe my brush with near death, knowing my intense fear of snakes. But sure enough, he saw it for himself. A python. I didn't end up going for a swim. 

The next day, it was back on the road again.

We stopped for lunch at the lush Gregory River (same river as before but further North). After lunch, we both jumped in for a swim knowing its probably the last swim we'll have for a long time as we head into croc country.


NORMANTON

The largest Croc ever caught. It is really hard to believe. "Surely not" Geoff repeated...


KARUMBA
When I saw this sign at the entrance to our caravan park in Karumba yesterday, 
I knew I had found home...

As Geoff took the boat off the roof racks, he found an unfortunate casualty from the trip... RIP little bird.

Whilst I was chatting on the phone, 'someone' decided to shorten the length of our lights board for the boat trailer. 'Someone' may have sawed right through 8 wires!!

'Someone' fixing his boo boo...
(To his credit, it all works again).

Geoff wanted this photo included as it was THE BEST fish he had eva had 
(from local Karumba fish n chip shop)...

Yes. I think I like Karumba.

So after catching up on some washing, shopping and sorting, we are now keen to do some fishing here. Armed only with a rough mud map from a local, we will tackle the high seas and croc invested waters of the rivers in search of the 'big one' ......